My main workbench.

The cornerstone of any shop is the workbench. Every project makes its way across your bench, so having the ideal setup is important. Different uses call for different benches. A woodworking bench is very different from one for a metal shop. My garage came with a workbench that was made of hardwood floor, likely left from the construction of our house. It was OK for a while, but it wasn’t very flat and it was high. I like a higher than average work surface, but it was really high.

On a side note: I have found that most people guess higher that normal for work surface height. I once asked about 6 people to show with their hands me how high a kitchen counter was. Most counters are at 36″, but people had their hands on imaginary counters in the 38-48″ range.

The Bench
A couple of years ago I pulled it out and built a new one. I wanted to make the best bench I could, one that would fit my needs and budget. Many people over build their workbench using beefy (and expensive) 6×6 legs with 2×4 frames, but under building has problems. Mass helps absorb vibrations from your hammer or sander. I used 2×3′s for the frame and legs, but tied it all in with the framing of the garage for added mass. The top was MDF (also heavy) covered with hardboard for a durable and replaceable surface. I made a backslpash by cutting an angle on some 1×4 with the circular saw to keep things from falling behind. It took a few years, but I also finished the edge with some more 1×4.

I have a small clamp on vice, a medium, and a nice large one, but I have never been able to commit to having them mounted. Usually its own weight is enough to keep it in place. I am afraid to mount it anywhere because as soon as I do, I know I will want it somewhere else.

Storage
Most of my benchtop power tools are attached to 2′x2′ pieces of MDF and have rails that they slide on under the counter. Its worked well for a several years. I had made a simple stand that they set on and had threaded inserts so the tool could be attached to the base, which also had a home under the counter. I never actually attached them and they only ever sat on it. I also intended to mount casters on the base, but after a few years I got tired of it and just took it apart. I had just the right thing to replace it with: a file cabinet.

Years ago I bought a used horizontal file cabinet from UM Property Disposition. I mounted casters on it and had a chunk of 2″ thick maple top that was 39″x24″ with a grid of ³/₄” holes (for bench dogs). Until recently it just sat around with some tools inside it and the top just sitting on top. I finally cut a couple of inches off the width of the top so it would fit under the counter. To attach it I bolted it together with some 1 1/2″ spacers so I can clean out underneath and get clamps under the top. There is also a 6″ overhang on the backside that should come in handy for clamping. It rolls out and can become extra workspace, or a place for benchtop tools.

C-Clamps, F-Clamps, Vise Grips, Spring clamps, deep C-Clamps.

You can never have too many clamps, and a few years back I was able to score a bunch of clamps for $25 on craigslist, when combined with my collection it gave me a good amount. I have them stored in the corner of the garage, and are all accessible while not taking away too much valuable space. Most are just mounted on wood rails and sorted by type.

Pegboard is an item of contention. Some people like it, some don’t. I didn’t until I got some with my house and now I am hooked (pun intended). I am too cheap to buy big tool chests, so pegboard is my cheap way to organize my tools for now.

As part of my new shelves I gained some new bench space. I decided to mount my battery chargers here as well to keep them out of the way.

This article is one in a series of articles entitled: The Garage. To see all the parts so far CLICK HERE.

Harbor Freight Trim Router with Rotozip Bits

This is a bare bones cheap tool from HF. I got it a while back as my first router for $20 with a coupon, and for cutting drywall it was awesome! I got a 1/4″ (for large openings like doors and windows) and a few 1/8″ (for outlet boxes) Rotozip Guidepoint bits and it made doing drywall so much easier. It eliminates having to locate/measure/mark/cut openings. All you have to do is make a note of where a box is and after putting a few screws in to hold the sheet of drywall up plunge the bit into the box and cut around it. Check out a tutorial of the process here. This combo saved tons of time.

Milwaukee 2450-22 12-volt Impact Driver

I got this not really needing it, but wanting a small driver and knowing that it would be useful. It turned out to be awesome for driving all sorts of screws.

Milwaukee 2420-22 12-Volt Hackzall

This was a dark horse. I got this on sale at Home Depot not knowing if I would even open it. It really turned out to be super useful. From cutting foam insulation, drywall, nails, to cutting notches this saw did it all. It is small and can be used anywhere a hand saw is called for. Not having a cordless recip saw I never knew how useful it is. It can also be held and used as a crude jigsaw. It doesn’t have gobs of power, but enough for most tasks.

Big Hammer Drill/Bosch Blue Granite Bits

This big hammer drill I borrowed from my dad. My 18v cordless drill has hammer capabilities, but the 150+ holes I needed to drill called for something bigger. Paired with Bosch Blue Granite bits it worked like a champ. The 100 packs of Tapcons each came with a bit, but from my experience those are junk. Local prices were steep, so I ordered a 5 pack from Amazon, and added a 2 pack of Milwaukee bits to get me to the free shipping. The last thing I wanted to do was to be out of bits and have to pay an arm and a leg to get them at the local big box. Turns out I only needed one. After 100 holes I switched to a new one thinking that the old one might be dull, but there wasn’t a noticeable difference. I will add the extras to the hammer drill case and the 6″ long 3/16″ with be dwarfed by the 12″ long 3/4″ inch bits in there.

Drywall Gun

I got this off Craigslist a year ago when were initially planning the remodel. The $15 I spent on it was money well spent. I also used my impact drivers with dimple bits sometimes, but having a light fast, and foolproof drywall gun was awesome. If anyone I know whats to borrow/buy it for a drywall project let me know.

Cheap Ryobi 10″ Miter Saw
I got this a few years ago for $60 on black friday. It doesn’t slide or have the accuracy or features of other miter saws, but for chopping wood it got the job done without complaint. I also bought a finer tooth blade that worked well for cutting the trim. The blade cost more than half the cost of the saw.

Milwaukee M12 Radio

This one isn’t really a tool, but it helped me out. During the renovation I won this from one of the blogs I read. I had used an old clock-radio, but the reception was never very good and switching stations with the old analog tuner was always a guessing game. This radio has fancy presets and digital tuner. I can also put an iPod in the built-in compartment and listen to it. It also able to run of battery so when I turn off a circuit the tunes (or usually NPR) keeps going.

Dewalt Tracksaw
I borrowed this from my father-in-law for the two cuts for the countertop and it worked great. If they weren’t so freaking expensive (and I didn’t have one nearby to borrow) I would get one for myself.

I inherited an old floor drill press from my grandfather. For a while it sat in my parents barn, but once I got my own house and garage it moved in with me. So far it has worked well, but I would like to do some upgrading to make it easier to use and more accurate. It is a beast and totally worth some time and effort. My grandfather already made some upgrades. The original motor was replaced with a washing machine motor, complete with a two speed switch added to the side. He also modified (flipped upside down) the cover to make adjusting the pulleys easier…I think. It may just be that the new motor wouldn’t let the cover fit properly.

What I would like to do is:

• Clean and wax the column. Older drill presses don’t have a rack and pinion to move the table up and down. To adjust the table I have to loosen the clamp, and bear hug/shimmy it up or down. Cleaning should make it easier to move.
• Counterweight the table. Once it moves freely a counterweight will allow for easier and theoretically more precise table adjustment. A cool commercial version is detailed here.
• New auxiliary table. Drill presses have tables designed for metal work. While I do some of that, I would also like one that works better for woodworking. Right now an old melamine coated cabinet side is on it from when my father-in-law used it for a project. I would like an adjustable fence, removable insert, dust extraction, and  T-track for hold-downs or other attachments. Something similar to this one that looks reasonably simple and functional. I would also like to use t-slot framing for the fence. I may just wait for the Harbor Freight one to go on sale though. Sometimes buying is cheaper then making, and way easier.
• Also Some sort of shelf/drawers to go underneath and fill with drill bits like this or this. I almost never use the full height of a floor drill press.